Co-washing at home
Below are the answers to some FAQ’s on the topic, as well as a step by step guide on how to do it right (you’re gonna hate it if you do it wrong). I hope you find it helpful!
Q: Why should I co-wash?
A: Your hair follicles make sebum. Sebum consists of oils, but also waxy substances. Hair in its natural state should have a waxy coating. You know how water beads off a duck? It’s like that. This coating makes hair feel softer and shinier. It also protects it from damage and makes it dry more quickly. When you shampoo, the surfactants in the shampoo remove oil, but also that waxy coating. Your scalp notices this. It thinks, “That’s not right…” So it starts trying to replace it as fast as it can. That’s why your hair becomes oily so quick after washing it. Your scalp thinks something is wrong and is trying to fix it. It knows this is not natural.
When you co-wash, the oils in the conditioner adhere to the oils and dirt on your scalp, allowing them to be rinsed away together. But conditioner leaves behind the waxy coating that hair naturally should have. Over time, your scalp will adjust to this and stop overproducing oil. The result? Your hair will be shinier, healthier, and will also feel clean for much longer.
Q: For what hair types does this work?
A: All of them! You can co-wash with any conditioner you want. If you have fine hair, co-wash with a volumizing conditioner. Thick hair? Smoothing conditioner. Thinning hair? Stimulating conditioner. The possibilities are endless. No matter your hair type, it will be healthier with co-washing. Fine hair will feel thicker and fuller. Frizzy hair will become smoother and more manageable. Coarse hair will feel softer.
Q: I have skin issues, will this help?
A: Absolutely! For many people, the surfactants in shampoo (sulfates or anything that has the suffix -ate) are a huge immune response trigger. Other ingredients to watch out for are parabens, silicones, and synthetic fragrances. Co-washing with a product that is free of these ingredients can be a lifesaver for over-reactive skin.
Q: I use a lot of product, don’t I need shampoo to remove it?
A: Nope. Co-washing will do the trick if you do it right. If you use a strong wax or pomade, you may need to co-wash twice.
Q: I need to use shampoo after I get my hair colored or bleached though, right?
A: Nope. A proper co-washing will remove color and bleach from hair just fine.
Q: I tried this before and I hated it. Is it just not for me?
A: Like many people who attempt this without adequate instruction, it’s very possible you did it wrong. It’s not as simple as just taking shampoo out of your routine and conditioning as you always have. That’s a recipe for a dirty, oily mess on your head.
Here’s how to do it right:
Brush your hair and scalp with a plastic bristle brush like this or this. A healthy scalp is one with good circulation. The brush will loosen any dirt or product buildup and make co-washing more effective. Plus it just feels good. (This step is not mandatory but is still recommended.)
Start by rinsing your hair well with warm or tepid water*. Try to avoid using hot water on your hair as it opens the cuticle layer, causing your hair to become dull and damaged over time. Also, a cool scalp is a happy, healthy scalp.
Fully saturate your hair with conditioner. THIS IS WHERE PEOPLE GO WRONG! For shoulder length and longer hair, you can easily use a full cup of product. For this reason it makes sense to purchase your conditioner in liter sizes. This seems like an extra expense until you consider that not only will you no longer be buying shampoo, eventually when your scalp adjusts and stops overproducing oil, you may be able to go a full week or longer without washing. If you are not using enough product, your hair will not be clean. This is so important.
Massage the product into your scalp fairly aggressively. If you add a little water the conditioner will even foam slightly. Don’t rush this step. Give it a really good scrub. Make sure you don’t miss any areas.
Using a plastic hair pick, comb through your hair from roots to ends, removing all tangles. Continue to comb for at least a minute, allowing the teeth of the pick to massage your scalp and pull all the oil from your scalp down thorough your hair.
Rinse well with tepid or cool water*. Scrub your scalp as you rinse. This is the part where we’re really removing all the dirt and oil so take your time and be thorough. Finishing with a cold rinse is always a good idea. Cold water seals the cuticles of your hair and makes it shinier and healthier.
*A note about water temps: Some people just must have a scalding hot shower. You are still better off co-washing if you are one of these people. BUT, your hair will be better in every way if you avoid hot water on it, as will your scalp.